#Whiting #Davis #Jewelry #Buy #Leave #WorthPoint
Many vintage lovers know Whiting & Davis for their metal mesh evening bags. The company made linked mesh purses by hand in the late 1800s and mechanized the process in the early 20th century. Since then, it has sold millions of bags and marketed other fashionable accessories like clothing made of metal mesh and, of course, jewelry.
I’ve long been a fan of Whiting & Davis jewelry for its wearability and have added several pieces to my collection. It’s nicely plated, doesn’t contain lots of small stones that can easily fall out and is very durable. If you tend to favor bracelets like me, this can be important when you tend to wear them on repeat. But when buying for resale, I don’t always gravitate toward Whiting & Davis. Since I have a little experience with the brand, I’ll fill you in on some styles to avidly look for and ones to consider leaving behind the next time you’re out thrifting.
Brief Company Background
Wade, Davis, & Company, the business that became Whiting & Davis, started as a jewelry manufacturer in the 1870s. The firm’s handbag production eclipsed its jewelry production in the 20th century. Even so, the company patented several jewelry designs, including hoop earrings in 1881 and a snake bangle bracelet that brought its unique hinged style to the industry in 1903. However, most of the firm’s jewelry found today was produced from the 1950s through the 1980s.
Many pieces have “Whiting & Davis Co. Mesh Bags” stamped directly into the metalwork. Others are marked on oval hang tags or earring clipbacks reading “Whiting & Davis” in uppercase lettering. Be wary of items presented as unmarked Whiting & Davis since other companies also produced metal mesh pieces.
Since metal mesh has always been the bread and butter for Whiting & Davis, you’d expect the firm to sell some interesting jewelry made of this material. Draping scarf (or handkerchief) necklaces that were popular with the disco crowd of the 1970s are good sellers. Gold and patterned mesh usually bring $75 and up; plain silver versions often sell for less than $50. Look for metal mesh in pristine condition to garner the highest prices.
Rigid metal mesh snake bangles, necklaces, and belts with serpent heads and tails on each end are also best bets when picking up Whiting & Davis pieces for resale since it’s uncommon for them to sell for $100 or more. The more coils the bracelets have, the higher the price. Many of these were made during the 1950s and ’60s. Some earlier versions, however, are only marked “W & D.”
Similar mesh wrap bracelets with cabochon stones embellishing the ends are still good to pick up but will usually sell for less than the snake designs. Necklaces made to emulate neckties made of metal mesh are also interesting collectibles to look for, although they’re not as plentiful.
When it comes to metal mesh jewelry to avoid, plain mesh earrings usually sell for around $10 per pair. Simple choker necklaces without embellishment are also hard to sell for much more. Unless you pick them up for a quarter at a garage sale, they may not be worth the effort to photograph and list online.
Whiting & Davis Cameo Jewelry
Just like there are trends everyone jumps on today, that was true back when Whiting & Davis pieces were first being sold. Victorian revival jewelry was a big hit in the 1960s, and Whiting & Davis made cameo jewelry to satisfy demand. As with other types of “common” jewelry, seeing those items repeatedly now means they sold well back when they were new. Most of these cameo designs have similar filigree-look settings that are silver or gold-plated. The cameo designs include examples with clear intaglio glass decorating hinged bracelets and other matching pieces. It’s common for a complete set to sell in the $50–75 range. However, single pieces can be hard to move, with pendant necklaces, small pins, and oval clip earrings selling for less than $10 each in many instances.
Prices tend to go up, though, when the cameos in these designs are unusual. Look for pieces with floral cameos, especially hinged bangles, which can bring $75–100 each. Necklace and earring sets featuring colored glass intaglios can sell in the same price range. Single rings with cameos imitating black lava can also sell in the $50 range.
Other Whiting & Davis Jewelry
Some other Whiting & Davis jewelry styles crop up for sale frequently, too. Take the company’s hinged bangles made entirely of plated metal with repoussé leaf or flower motifs. Most of these all-metal bangles only bring $20–35, no matter how impressive they look on the wrist.
Other hinged bracelets and matching pieces are embellished with large colored cabochons, faceted glass stones, glass cabs that look like hematite, or genuine mother of pearl. Depending on the style, these can bring a bit more selling in the $35–65 range. Some wide, elaborate designs with molded metal leaves can sell higher. Definitely keep an eye out for guilloche-enameled wide bangles that almost always sell for $100 or more. In general, any Whiting & Davis bangle in nice condition you can pick up reasonably priced is worth taking a chance on.
What else should you think about leaving behind? A few Whiting & Davis pieces have been hard to move, so I tend to avoid them. These pieces include buttons and other styles of earrings made solely of silver or gold-plated metal and many of their pendant necklaces. The earrings don’t usually bring more than $10–15 a pair after sitting forever, nor do the necklaces.
Of course, what’s in demand in the costume jewelry world shifts from time to time, so it’s wise to keep an eye on the market. For now, however, steering clear of Whiting & Davis pieces that don’t have much character is a best practice I’m continuing to follow.
Pamela Siegel is a freelance writer and author who has been educating collectors for more than two decades. In addition to three books on topics relating to antiques and collectibles, she frequently shares her expertise through online writing and articles for print-based publications. Pamela is also the co-founder of Costume Jewelry Collectors Int’l (CJCI) and the proprietor of Chic Antiques by Pamela.
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