#Vintage #Carhartt #Hot #Work #Clothes #Streetwear #WorthPoint
In 1889, Hamilton Carhartt bought two sewing machines and installed them in a small loft in Detroit. He originally created his clothing line for men who worked building the railroads, and the brand remains popular for anyone who does outdoor physical labor. However, Carhartt has also become a surprisingly popular streetwear look and a hot designer trend in the music industry.
HOW IT STARTED
Much like the railroads, the Carhartt brand spread far and fast from its origins in that tiny loft with a couple of sewing machines. By 1910, Carhartt had opened mills in Georgia and South Carolina and factories in Atlanta, Detroit, Dallas, and San Francisco, where workers sewed the clothes. The company’s jackets, overalls, and pants were meant to last, even under the toughest conditions.
The overalls were the first product Carhartt created, and they are still a hot item in the vintage market today. The company created overalls in thick denim and heavy sail cloth, and both versions are popular with collectors. Small details made the brand work for railroad men and others doing heavy labor. The sizing through the seat was generous because workers often had to bend, crouch, and crawl in small spaces. Carhartt double reinforced the knees so that a pair would last longer than the standard dungaree pants by other makers.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Like any brand that’s been around for over 130 years, the variety of items can be confusing. Over time, the Carhartt logo has undergone several changes, even if the style of the classic jackets remains much the same. The tags and care labels on Carhartt clothing are often the best way to determine the age of a piece. This article contains images of the logos and dates used to help collectors who scour thrift stores for Carhartt treasures.
Although Carhartt might have been basic work wear for decades, some thrifters and vintage clothing fans have been looking for older pieces of the brand more recently. Not just for their quality but for their style, too.
One of the more popular looks is a denim jacket from the mid-1940s or ’50s. The company’s logo at this time had a train car as a reminder of the company’s early days making clothing for railroad employees. Called a “chore coat jacket,” it had multiple pockets and triple stitching, and the buttons, as shown on this one, included the heart on the company logo.
Until 1998, Carhartt manufactured all of its items in the USA, all through union labor. Supporting and advocating for workers’ rights has been a tenet of the company since its inception. With the economy taking some hits in the 1980s and ’90s, the company built a factory in Mexico, organized the employees into a union, and began production there. The care labels on these pieces differ from earlier ones that touted the “Made in the USA” tags. While there was some pushback on outsourcing, the company has maintained the safety and work environment standards of its US factories in Mexican facilities.
WHAT ABOUT NOW?
Fans gather on social media to trade tips on how to authenticate jackets and overalls, and the company has its own TikTok feed of videos showing the particular details of different pieces. Thrifters and resellers also maintain a solid social media presence about the brand, often creating posts and videos of their “Carhartt hauls.”
So, how does an established workwear brand, initially intended for rural workers who perform tough jobs out in the elements, become a social media sensation? For Carhartt, it was all about the record labels. According to this article in GQ, Tommy Boy Records purchased 800 Carhartt jackets, put its logo on them, and handed them out to bands and artists. The 1990s hip-hop group House of Pain wore them in an early video, and then every band wanted the look, and fans followed.
One of Carhartt’s most popular music-related lines is the Eminem line, which the company released in 2022 to coincide with the twentieth anniversary of the rap artist’s 8 Mile album. Jackets, hats, and other merch from the line remain popular with rap fans.
WORKWEAR WINDS UP ON THE RUNWAY
In 1989, Swedish designer Edwin Faeh inked a licensing deal with Carhartt to create streetwear for European customers. The company allowed Faeh to design creations under the “Work in Progress” or WIP brand. That move turned into multiple collaborations with other brands and designers. The practical design of the clothing, mixed with some designer elements, meant that Carhartt shoes, hats, and accessories now came in styles that evoked a hipster aesthetic.
Japanese luxury brand Sacai also collaborated with Carhartt, and the pieces were a hit at Paris Fashion Week in 2024. The jackets, pants, and overalls might have started as very sturdy pieces meant to accommodate the needs of tradespeople and laborers, but the brand has branched out to include designer offerings alongside its regular merchandise.
SO, WHAT’S IT WORTH?
Buying vintage or specialty Carhartt may come with a high price tag. On the other hand, if you have something in your closet that you won’t wear anymore, it could bring a tidy sum on some auction sites. Here are some examples of different Carhartt pieces.
This jacket is a vintage Carhartt Detroit jacket that dates back to the 1970s and is an example of one made in the USA. The company hasn’t changed this style, so it remains a textbook example of a vintage piece that’s become a classic.
If you are looking for their signature overalls, a niche collectible would be the Finck “Headlight” overalls. In 1960, Carhartt acquired the Finck Company. W.M. Finck originally started in 1891 as a designer with Hamilton Carhartt. In 1902, Finck went out on his own, but by 1960, his heirs decided to sell the company to Carhartt, so overalls made by Carhartt, with the Finck design, are very rare. This pair recently sold for almost $700 because they feature the tag design that includes the Finck name and the “Headlight” style name.
Finally, it’s important to know that Carhartt made more than clothing. Some of its outdoor work gear is very collectible. One of the company’s more notable lines is the “Superdux” line of waterproof gear, like this match safe case, which recently sold for almost $50. Railroad workers, miners, and other hard labor workers often required waterproof equipment, and since Carhartt was a trusted name, the Superdux line is popular with collectors.
Whether you’re a vintage Carhartt fan and want something old-school, or you want to represent at a club or on the street, there’s a Carhartt piece for you. Now’s a great time to start (or continue) building your collection.
Brenda Kelley Kim lives in the Boston area. She is the author of Sink or Swim: Tales From the Deep End of Everywhere and writes a weekly syndicated column for The Marblehead Weekly News/Essex Media Group. When not writing or walking her snorty pug, Penny, she enjoys yard sales, flea markets, and badminton.
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