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The sale of a remarkable private collection of items by the late Dame Vivienne Westwood, one of the most innovative and influential fashion designers of the 20th and 21st centuries, is set to take place at Tennants Auctioneers in North Yorkshire on August 15, 2024. Titled Vivienne Westwood: Five Decades at the Cutting Edge, this auction is believed to be the largest private collection of Westwood’s designs to be sold outside London, featuring over 300 garments and accessories that span her groundbreaking career.
Vivienne Westwood’s impact on fashion and culture is unparalleled. From defining the Punk aesthetic in the 1970s to her later years as a global fashion icon and environmental activist, Westwood’s designs continually challenged conventions and redefined style. Her work was not just about clothing but also about making bold political and cultural statements, a hallmark that resonates throughout this collection.
The collection has been meticulously assembled over the past two decades by Susan Baker, a dedicated admirer of Westwood’s work. Baker, who has a background in collecting historical costume, was inspired to focus on Westwood after visiting the landmark Vivienne Westwood retrospective at the Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) in 2004. “Unlike Vivienne, in the 1970s I wasn’t a punk rocker, but I’ve always been a rebel,” Baker commented. “I love how her clothes are an expression of dissatisfaction with the status quo, of political rebellion.” This sentiment drove her to seek out as many pieces from the exhibition catalogue as possible, sourcing them from antiques fairs, auctions, and specialist dealers.
Baker’s collection particularly highlights Westwood’s unique ability to blend traditional tailoring and historical references with avant-garde design. Westwood was renowned for drawing inspiration from historical dress, from the slashed fabrics of Tudor and Jacobean court attire to the flowing draperies of 18th-century French paintings, such as those by Jean-Antoine Watteau. This fusion of the old and the new is a recurring theme in the collection.
Key Highlights of the Collection
Among the standout pieces in the auction is the Harlequin Mini-Crini from the Voyage to Cythera Collection (Autumn/Winter 1989). This two-piece ensemble, inspired by the characters of Italian Commedia dell’Arte and Watteau’s paintings, is estimated to fetch between £8,000 and £12,000. The Mini-Crini is emblematic of Westwood’s ability to reinterpret historical influences in a modern, provocative way.
Another notable lot is a corset top from the Portrait Collection (Autumn/Winter 1990/91), with an estimate of £1,000-1,500. Corsets were a recurring motif in Westwood’s designs, symbolizing both rebellion and empowerment. This piece exemplifies her skill in combining traditional structures with contemporary fashion.
From the Café Society Collection (Spring/Summer 1994), a pinstripe suit is offered with an estimate of £500-800. This suit reflects Westwood’s fascination with British tailoring and her ability to subvert classic menswear into something entirely new and daring.
The Voyage to Cythera Harris tweed ‘Savile’ jacket and nude leggings, the latter featuring a mirrored fig leaf, is another highlight, estimated at £2,500-3,500. This ensemble showcases Westwood’s mastery of texture and her playful yet subversive approach to design.
For fans of Westwood’s early work, the ‘The Great Rock N’Roll Swindle’ T-shirt from the Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren Seditionaries label (circa 1978) is a must-see. Featuring images of Sid Vicious, this T-shirt is a quintessential piece of Punk memorabilia and is estimated to sell for £500-800.
Westwood’s Legacy
Vivienne Westwood’s designs were never just about fashion; they were a form of cultural commentary. Her work in the 1970s with Malcolm McLaren at their iconic King’s Road boutique, SEX, helped shape the Punk movement, creating a visual language of rebellion that resonated globally. Westwood’s use of provocative imagery, unconventional materials, and historical references challenged the norms of fashion and society.
In the 1980s and beyond, Westwood continued to push boundaries, exploring new silhouettes, fabrics, and themes. Her Mini-Crini (1985), a hybrid of the crinoline and the miniskirt, became an instant classic, encapsulating her ability to blend historical influences with modern sensibilities. Her Portrait Collection (1990) drew inspiration from 18th-century portraiture, reimagining historical garments with a contemporary twist.
Westwood’s later years saw her increasingly embrace activism, using her platform to advocate for environmental sustainability, human rights, and political change. Her fashion shows and campaigns often carried strong messages, reinforcing her belief that fashion could be a force for good.
The Collection’s Significance
This auction is not just a sale of clothing; it is a celebration of Vivienne Westwood’s enduring legacy. The collection offers a comprehensive overview of her career, from her Punk roots to her later explorations of historical and artistic themes. Susan Baker’s dedication to preserving and curating these pieces ensures that Westwood’s work continues to inspire and provoke future generations.
The sale also underscores the enduring appeal of Westwood’s designs, which remain as relevant and revolutionary today as they were when they first appeared. Her ability to combine artistry, politics, and fashion into a cohesive vision has cemented her status as one of the most important designers of the modern era.
Conclusion
Vivienne Westwood: Five Decades at the Cutting Edge is a rare opportunity to acquire pieces from one of fashion’s most iconic figures. Whether it’s the rebellious spirit of her Punk-era designs or the sophisticated elegance of her historical-inspired creations, each item in this collection tells a story of innovation, defiance, and artistry. The auction at Tennants Auctioneers on August 15 promises to be a landmark event, celebrating the extraordinary life and work of Dame Vivienne Westwood.
