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Review by Kiersten Busch
SUDBURY, MASS. — On July 28, Tremont Auctions conducted its Designer Fashion & Couture auction, offering 225 lots from a single-owner collection of fine couture, jewelry and accessories, including handbags, shoes, clothing and scarves. Most of the lots were unworn and many included their original boxes.
“We were very happy with the auction, considering what it was,” reported Cameron Ayotte, auction manager at Tremont, when Antiques and The Arts Weekly caught up with him after the sale. “Any time we can have over a $1,000 average lot value is a good sign.” With a 97 percent sell-through rate, the auction totaled $256,828. While Ayotte did not report any specific demographics for the buying pool, he did note that most of the lots were purchased by domestic buyers.
Leading the sale was a set of three Louis Vuitton cruiser bags in the signature monogram pattern. The bags, in sizes 50, 55 and 60, were able to fit one inside the other, and came with their original locks and keys. Both the largest of the trio, measuring 19 inches wide and 14 inches high, and the smallest came with a dust bag. All three were in never used condition. Despite some staining on the leather trim of the largest bag, bidders still pushed the trio to $6,985, surpassing their high estimate.
Also in the signature Louis Vuitton monogram pattern were a carry tote and pochette case, which earned $2,286. The carry tote had one exterior and interior zippered pocket, as well as two additional open pockets in the suede interior. Its two leather handles measured 10 inches high at their center. The pochette case contained a cloth interior and included an attachable strap. Both pieces were in never-used condition.
Other Louis Vuitton offerings included a papillon trunk leather handbag, created in collaboration with Japanese artist Takashi Murakami. The classic monogram pattern on the bag also included smiling pink cherry blossom flowers, Murakami’s trademark design. The studded leather-trimmed purse retained its original stuffing paper and came with an attached hanging key case and keys. Surpassing its $2,500 high estimate, the bag bloomed to $3,810.
Bags, shoes and other accessories from Chanel made up almost one quarter of the lots offered from the collection. An assortment of leather quilted handbags were popular with bidders, with prices ranging from $1,905 to almost $5,000. The highest-price realized was for a classic leather quilted handbag in the camel color, which crossed the block for $4,826. The purse was adorned with the iconic “CC” logo clasp and had an attached single chain link strap. Included with the lot were the bag’s black dust bag, original stuffing paper and certificate of authenticity card.
A Chanel python snakeskin clutch in deep gray attracted bidders and sold for four times its high estimate. Labeled in the auction catalog as “exotic” and “sensual,” the purse was fastened with the traditional “CC” clasp and could be worn as a clutch or an over-the-shoulder bag by using the included chain-link strap. It came with a certificate of authenticity and a small, sealed Chanel envelope. The 10½-inch-long purse slithered to $4,064.
Also popular with bidders was the assortment of Chanel shoes offered. The highest price to cross the block, $2,413, belonged to a set of two pairs of Chanel Mary Jane flats in their original boxes, with dust bags. One pair was a pale pink lambskin, and the other was light beige textured leather. Both never-worn pairs were size 39 and had black leather toes, a quintessential design choice for Chanel Mary Janes.
Leading the jewelry category was a Gurhan necklace made with 22K gold and sapphires. The 17½-inch long necklace consisted of smooth surface sapphires, together with additional semi-precious blue stones. The central sapphire did not appear bigger than the others but was instead marked by the tiny diamonds that surrounded it. The necklace realized $6,350, the second-highest price of the sale. Its matching 22K gold bracelet and earrings sold as separate lots, earning $3,556 and $762 respectively. According to Ayotte, the set will stay complete as, “all three pieces sold to the same buyer.”
Rounding out the top three lots of the sale was a Roberto Coin 18K gold and heavy diamond bracelet, which sold for $5,856, surpassing its $5,000 high estimate. The bracelet had a white and yellow gold woven design with diamond-encrusted caps. The clasp, which also contained diamonds and was mounted with a ruby, was marked “Roberto Coin.” The backside of the jewelry piece had hallmark symbols “18K” and “Italy,” and featured a hidden ruby in an openwork design.
Tremont’s next auction will take place on September 8. The sale will offer art, antiques, jewelry, silver and a large collection of signed and antique books and historical documents.
Prices quoted include the buyer’s premium as reported by the auction house. For information, 617-795-1678 or www.tremontauctions.com.