#Vintage #Coach #Bag #Craze #Affect #Prices #WorthPoint
Have you caught the vintage Coach bag craze yet? As a reseller, I haven’t been able to keep the bags on the shelf lately—girls in their twenties are looking for classic “retro” totes to go with their immaculately thrifted outfits. In addition, as a luxury brand, Coach gives off a “rich mom” vibe, which has replaced the “quiet luxury” vibe among trendsetters. Read on to learn more about the iconic leather brand and why collectors are snatching up vintage designs like the classic “feed sac” faster than you can say “rich-mom energy!”
“Manhattan Leather Bags”
As a brand, Coach was founded in 1941 under its original name, Manhattan Leather Bags. The company gained its footing in leather goods by focusing on men’s accessories, such as wallets. Even as the company blasted into the world of women’s handbags, it continued making small goods for men. Department stores like Macy’s and Gimbels usually displayed a small rack of men’s black and brown belts along with huge purse displays during the 1980s and 1990s.
From the start, the company’s founders were entranced with the craft of leatherwork, earnestly studying the quality of material and craftsmanship of hard-working leather goods such as baseball gloves. Baseball gloves are known for being made of thick, supple leather that ages nicely with use or early “breaking in” with heat, warm water, or even shaving cream. While I’m sure Coach would not recommend this process with its expensive purses, its thick leather bags wear similarly over time while retaining their high quality, making each bag a worthy investment.
The innovators at Coach also discovered how well their leather absorbed different dyes, opening the door for designers to start crafting bags in various bright hues.
Bonnie Cashin Designs
While many of the leather goods made by Coach during its first twenty years in business were pretty staid, by the time the 1960s rolled around, the company had brought on established sportswear designer Bonnie Cashin to bring a fresh look to the brand. She expanded the company’s original collection of twelve handbags to include a signature “feed sac” or duffle bag while also bringing a practical approach to the company’s wares by encouraging the addition of pockets to the purses.
Today, Coach bags come in every size possible with as many pockets as you need, a far cry from the brand’s early days of brown, pocket-less purses.
Does the Craze Affect Prices?
Yes. Like any craze, the current clamor for all things vintage Coach has increased secondary market prices. Collectors especially seek classic Bonnie Cashin designs from the 1960s and 1970s. These bags have all stood the test of time, and today’s younger generations are invested in perpetuating the timeless styles.
For instance, this Bonnie Cashin purse sold for less than $50 in 2010, while this example sold for over $600 in February 2024. While pink Bonnie Cashin bags have always been rare, a few years ago, you could get one for just a few hundred dollars, like this pink bag, which sold for $399 in 2021. Just a few years later, in January 2024, this pink purse went for over $1,000 online.
The proof is in the numbers! So, how do these pricing trends affect your buying habits? Take a look.
Tips for Buying Vintage Coach
Condition is vital in vintage Coach bags. Since Coach products are made of such fine leather, it is unlikely that you will find a vintage bag with tears or holes. However, if you find a bag in a light hue, such as khaki or cream, it will likely have some discoloration or staining. If you are a vintage shopper with an arsenal of cleaning supplies like a leather cleaner, then have at it with trying to rehab the bag. If you’re more like me and shy away from having to clean vintage leather and textiles, either pass on the bag or bring it to a local shoe repair shop to clean it. Many cobblers clean and repair leather handbags in addition to shoes, although be sure to ask about the cost upfront.
Another unfortunate common condition issue with vintage Coach bags is odor. If the bag has been stored in an attic or basement, it may retain one of the “M” malodors (e.g., mildew, mustiness, mothballs), which will be hard to tackle. Again, you must gauge whether you have the bandwidth to deal with this.
Lastly, beware of fakes! The luxury handbag market is flooded with fakes, and while it is rarer to see fake vintage designs (as opposed to new designs), they are still out there. If you find a vintage Coach bag with no stains, odors, or wear and think it’s too good to be true, it may just be so. Grab your loupe and check for poor workmanship and degrading hardware, both of which are red flags for a fake.
When shopping for a vintage Coach bag, it also helps to educate yourself on the brand’s classic designs and models. Coach bags are considered “vintage” if made between the 1960s and the 1990s. Original 1960s designs are challenging to come by, and many have condition issues. However, many 1960s designs, such as the classic “feed sac” or “saddlebag” design, were made well into the 1990s, so you are more likely to find a bag in excellent condition from these later years.
Ultimately, if you find your dream vintage Coach bag, I still encourage you to keep a fine eye on the condition. If no condition issues are present, your vintage Coach purchase will be “in the bag!”
For more information on identifying and valuing Coach products, check out our Dictionary page on the luxury manufacturer.
Amy Moyer is the proprietor of Antmuffin: Art, Antiques & Collectibles. She holds a B.A. in Visual Art from Brown University and lives in Boston.
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