#Cameo #Jewelry #Extraordinary #Piece #WorthPoint
How many genuine cameos do you own? How many of them are truly remarkable? Do you know how to tell? Before I give you some hints on distinguishing the best in cameo jewelry, I’ll admit that I’m not a cameo collector. I inherited a couple of cameo brooches from family members years ago, though, and have researched to find out more about them.
Through that process (and by belonging to several online jewelry groups where cameos are discussed from time to time and lots of jewelry study in general), I’ve learned enough to recognize a superior cameo when I see one. The examples in my family jewelry stash—as pretty and sentimentally valuable as they are to me—aren’t that type. However, knowing about the good ones has paid off when I’ve been out foraging the flea markets, so having that knowledge under my belt kept me from passing up some good acquisitions. I’ll let you in on a few things I always seek in a cameo so you can find a treasure, too.
What I Look for in Fine Cameo Jewelry
Cameos have been around since ancient times, and they’ve been carved from all types of natural materials, including genuine gemstones. They’ve also been molded out of plastic and glass much more recently. Many of the oldest ones are held in museum collections, and the costume jewelry versions deserve some attention of their own in a different feature.
So, in this article, I’m focusing on the group you’ll run across, most often dating from the Victorian era through the early 1900s. By this time, cameo jewelry was already in high demand, and some older carvings were being reset into bespoke jewelry. Souvenir cameos were being brought back from Italy, especially to the United Kingdom, and carvers in the United States were working to create custom cameo designs, too, as noted in an 1850 edition of Godey’s Lady’s Book.
Considering these factors, here are the key attributes I look for in a truly desirable cameo, whether it’s set into a brooch, bracelet, necklace, or ring:
Fine Materials—Many fine cameos are set in precious metals. Older cameos may not be marked to indicate the metal content, though, so don’t rule one out if you don’t see a stamping. Even when the metal is marked, that doesn’t mean the cameo itself is a superior example, but it’s always worth noting since it can certainly make the piece more valuable overall. On some rare occasions when distinctive details are present, you may be able to identify the maker of the jewelry with some dedicated research, but most of the time, that remains a mystery.
The actual cameo can be carved from many different materials ranging from agate to corundum and onyx to jet. Coral and lava were also frequently carved into cameos during the Victorian period. The most common material of all is shell since it was plentiful and could be sold at a wide array of price points. You can generalize that stone cameos will have the most value, followed by coral, lava, and the like, with shells bringing up the rear. However, that leads us to the next point, which is even more important.
Exquisite Craftsmanship—Regardless of the setting and no matter what the cameo is made of, the skill and creativity exhibited in the carving make all the difference. Since these little works of art were made by carving away stone or shell to create a portrait or scene, the intricacies and detailing created by a master craftsman are what really set a great cameo apart from an average one.
Some of these carvings will be in high relief. That is, the face or figure depicted in the cameo will rise substantially above the background. Others will include minute details you’d expect to find in fine art, such as intricately carved locks of hair or realistically flowing fabric and true-to-life facial features. Compare any of the cameos illustrating this article to the ones you usually see while you’re shopping estate sales and flea markets, and you’ll see what I mean.
Unusual Motifs—I also look for cameos that are out of the ordinary in terms of subject matter with some caveats. “Scenic cameos are generally more expensive than bust cameos. A very popular motif around 1860 was what is known as ‘Rebecca at the Well.’ There are many variations on this theme, but they usually include a cottage, a bridge, and a girl,” as noted by C. Jeanenne Bell in Answers to Questions About Old Jewelry. The key here is that Rebecca at the Well was a trendy design so many were made. That means you can’t assume all scenic cameos bring big bucks. Most Rebecca at the Well cameos sell in the hundreds or less, in fact, whereas other desirable scenes may sell in the thousands.
Other Victorian cameos have motifs relating to Roman or Greek themes, including those featuring mythological characters. A cameo showing Roman soldiers in battle might not bring as much as a grouping of Greek gods or goddesses. Even with bust cameos, you’ll run across some rarities. Those depicting African American subjects and some featuring famous men or flappers can be worth more than a generic female in profile, but quality carving is still imperative.
A Cameo Conclusion
As I mentioned earlier, my inherited keeper cameos aren’t the highest quality types I always hope to find. They are simply attractive shell cameos that average consumers could afford when they were made in the late 1800s. If you come across cameos like these at a reasonable price, there’s no reason not to buy them. Just be aware that, because they are quite common, it may take longer to sell them, and they will fetch significantly less money compared to more exquisite designs.
Pamela Siegel is a freelance writer and author who has been educating collectors for more than two decades. In addition to three books on topics relating to antiques and collectibles, she frequently shares her expertise through online writing and articles for print-based publications. Pamela is also the co-founder of Costume Jewelry Collectors Int’l (CJCI) and the proprietor of Chic Antiques by Pamela.
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