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When it comes to collecting Trifari costume jewelry, a brand renowned for its high-quality and iconic designs, it’s easy to assume that every piece is a worthwhile investment. However, as with any collectible, there are pitfalls to avoid and nuances to consider. Trifari, a giant in the costume jewelry industry, produced millions of pieces over the decades, and while many are highly sought after, others are less desirable. Here’s a guide to help you navigate the world of Trifari jewelry, highlighting what to look for and what to avoid.
Understanding Trifari Marks
One of the first things to note is that the brand is simply called Trifari, not “Crown Trifari.” The latter term is often used by sellers to distinguish pieces made before the mid-1970s, when the company changed ownership. Jewelry from the 1930s through the 1960s is generally the most collectible, as this period represents the brand’s peak in design and craftsmanship. Most pieces from this era are marked with a crown over the T, though the style of the crown can vary.
However, not all post-1970s Trifari jewelry is undesirable. For example, pieces designed by Kunio Matsumoto in the late 1970s are exceptions, as are reissues of classic designs from 1996, such as the Norman Bel Geddes sailfish jelly belly and other iconic pieces. Always evaluate newer pieces based on their design and additional marks before dismissing them.
The 1970s: A Mixed Bag
The 1970s marked a decline in Trifari’s reputation for high-quality designs, especially after the company became part of Hallmark. While the 1970s have seen a fashion revival in recent years, many Trifari pieces from this era—such as black-enameled pendant necklaces, polished gold-tone brooches, and nondescript clip earrings—are not in high demand. These items often linger on the market, even when heavily discounted.
One notable exception is the work of Diane Love, whose designs for Trifari in the 1970s are quirky, unique, and highly collectible. If you come across her pieces, they’re worth considering, even if they’re from this less-desirable era.
White Trifari Jewelry: Proceed with Caution
White Trifari jewelry—whether it features white plastic beads, cabochons, or enamel—tends to be less valuable in the vintage market. These pieces often sell for less than $10 unless they have something special about them. For example, white enameled pieces adorned with “fruit salad” stones (tiny molded glass fruits) or those from the Precious Pets collection (figurals from the 1960s) can fetch higher prices. However, it’s essential to research thoroughly before investing in white Trifari jewelry, as it’s generally a less lucrative category.
Missing Stones: A Risky Investment
Trifari jewelry with missing stones can be a tricky area. While some pieces are easy to repair, others are nearly impossible to restore, especially if they feature rare or uniquely shaped stones. Trifari wasn’t as notorious as Marcel Boucher for using odd stone sizes to deter copycats, but some of their most valuable pieces from the 1930s are challenging to repair if stones are missing. Specialty stones, such as molded glass in specific shapes and colors, can be incredibly difficult to find, even with extensive online searches.
Before purchasing a rare Trifari piece with missing stones, carefully assess whether you’ll be able to find suitable replacements. Otherwise, you may end up with a beautiful but incomplete piece that’s difficult to sell.
Trifari Pearls: A Changing Market
Trifari’s pearl jewelry is another category that requires careful consideration. In the past, brushed gold-tone or silver-tone pieces set with faux pearls from the 1960s were not particularly popular. While these designs are undeniably elegant, they often sold for low prices and lingered on the market for extended periods.
However, the market has shifted slightly, and some pearl designs have seen an increase in value. That said, many still sell for less than $25, so it’s essential to research specific styles and avoid overpaying. Trifari produced millions of pieces, and the ones you encounter most frequently were often their best sellers—but that doesn’t always translate to high demand today.
Final Thoughts
Trifari remains one of the most iconic names in costume jewelry, and many of its pieces are highly collectible. However, not all Trifari jewelry is created equal. To make informed decisions, focus on pieces from the brand’s golden era (1930s–1960s), pay attention to marks and design details, and be cautious with white jewelry, 1970s pieces, and items with missing stones. Additionally, keep an eye on market trends, as the value of certain categories, like pearl jewelry, can fluctuate over time.
By understanding these nuances, you can avoid common pitfalls and build a collection of Trifari jewelry that’s both beautiful and valuable. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or just starting out, taking the time to research and evaluate each piece will help you make smarter investments and enjoy the timeless appeal of Trifari’s designs.
About the Author:
Pamela Siegel is a freelance writer and author with over two decades of experience in educating collectors. She has written three books on antiques and collectibles and frequently shares her expertise through online and print publications. Pamela is also the co-founder of Costume Jewelry Collectors Int’l (CJCI) and the proprietor of Chic Antiques by Pamela.
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